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	<title>Comments on: Vixen Star Book FAQ</title>
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	<link>http://enzerink.net/peter/blog/2008/06/24/vixen-star-book-faq</link>
	<description>Welcome to the entry point for my presence on the internet</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Thu, 24 Nov 2011 20:01:01 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>By: Steve Lawrence</title>
		<link>http://enzerink.net/peter/blog/2008/06/24/vixen-star-book-faq/comment-page-1#comment-195</link>
		<dc:creator>Steve Lawrence</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 24 Nov 2011 20:01:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">#comment-195</guid>
		<description>hello Peter,
 I have been a happy Sphinx SXW user since 2005, but have only just found your excellent web site. I have added each update from Vixen so am now on version 2.1. I have had few glitches and no real problems until recently when the Dec drive got much slower and jumped twice.
Reading your web I investigated the bearings and am very glad I did before permanent damage. A WARNING TO ALL THAT IF YOU GET JUMPS AND BUMPS OR UNEVEN SPEEDS INVESTIGATE THE MECHANICS AND DONT BLAME THE SOFTWARE.  I now have a mount that spins willingly and smoothly again in both axes ! Thank you.

Some observations and points you may like to add to your FAQ notes:

If the problem is only stiffness when balancing in Declination then the circular plate with 2 small  holes on top of the dec head can be loosened to achieve this. Nothing to remove and it will have no effect on the scope drive when the head is clamped for slewing and tracking.

The RA axis bearing control ring (under the polar scope as you describe) can be loosened for easier balancing.This shaft does not rotate when the RA axis is clamped as the body goes around the fixed shaft. I could not see whether the ring controlled the end float of the RA head on the clamped shaft. It probably does. A little friction is necessary for damping the drive when tracking so dont make it completely free for balancing.

The circular plate underneath the DEC head is indeed the main thrust control for that axis when tracking/slewing and in my case the bearing was slightly stiff. You do not mention that there is also a lock grub scew on this plate at 90deg to the two pin holes . It has to be aligned with a small cut out in the housing so that you can back it off and retighten with a 1.5mm allen key. Perhaps this is a later change?

I found the best way to investigate the mechanical state of the drive and bearings was to remove each of the drive cogs from the motors, by loosening the grub screws. I then ran each motor with the hand controller buttons and observed that they ran quickly and smoothly both ways  to confirm that it was not a control or electrical fault. With the motor cogs removed the worm drive and main bearing can then be seperately checked by finger and thumb on the driven cog. Motion should be smooth, easy and you may feel just a little back lash. It is worth going round 360 deg of the toothed wheel as the worm drive can be tighter/looser in some places. Any adjustment of the worm should be done at the tight spot. 

In my case fortunately the RA drive felt good but the DEC drive was tight. I removed the control board and cover as you describe. 

On the RA worm at this point it is possible to wipe excess dirty grease away from the worm and apply a small amount of clean grease just on the worm. Turn the worm to spread the grease and remove excess. I also put a spot of thin oil on the end of the RA worm shaft where it is located by a chrome hex nut which controls end float on this shaft - any excess is removed after rotating. Below I explain why!

On the DEC drive I had to do considerably more.The worm assembly removes completely by taking out the 4 cap head screws. The worm adjustment grub screw can be left unmoved. With the worm removed it was ideal to adjust main DEC shaft bearing since the free movement can now be felt exactly. I backed it off a fraction to get a nice buttery feel, but could tell this was not the cause of the problem.

The problem was that the DEC worm itself was tight in its block. Remove the cog and undo the chrome locknut. The exposed threaded sleeve under the nut will screw out from the block and the whole worm shaft can now be removed. There is a thin thrust washer not to lose ! The dirty worm grease had spead every where along the shaft into the bearings. All this was cleaned off and the shaft bearings given a smear of oil.
Reassemble the worm block and set the end play with the thread and locknut to a nice feel with no play.Refit drive cog.The worm only can be greased a little and the block refixed. Fit and bed down the larger cap screws first but not tight. Fit the smaller cap screws tight and check the worm adjustment. If it feels Ok tighten the larger caps and check again. It may get tighter in which case you should loosen all the scews, move the grub scew in 1/8th turn and try again. 

What if the problem was on the RA axis ? First try backing off the bearing ring on the shaft. If this does not help I would go the whole hog and remove the motor to get out the worm assembly and clean it completely not just adjust the depth.

In my case I now felt confident that the motors were OK.The main bearings on both shafts were not binding but not loose. The worms did not bind anywhere in 360deg and that the worm axles were not binding. The back lash was similiar on both axes and is 1/16&quot;  at the edge of the worm cog. Any less and I felt binding. 

I refittd the motor cogs to align with the worm cogs and refitted the control board and cover.
Connected power and tested the drive and was happy to achieve fast and quiet operation on both axes. Back on with the plastic covers and job done.

All these things can be done inside in a warm clean environment and with simple hand tools.
Even those who are wary of things mechanical could probably take off the plasic covers, remove the motor cogs and have a feel of the mechanical drive, remove excess grease and be happy that the mount is in good shape. It does seem that these mounts are prone to locking up on either axis, perhaps due to dirty grease and rather tight factory settings, and prevention may save a more expensive failure or poor slewing. 

best wishes to all users,
regards,
Steve.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>hello Peter,<br />
 I have been a happy Sphinx SXW user since 2005, but have only just found your excellent web site. I have added each update from Vixen so am now on version 2.1. I have had few glitches and no real problems until recently when the Dec drive got much slower and jumped twice.<br />
Reading your web I investigated the bearings and am very glad I did before permanent damage. A WARNING TO ALL THAT IF YOU GET JUMPS AND BUMPS OR UNEVEN SPEEDS INVESTIGATE THE MECHANICS AND DONT BLAME THE SOFTWARE.  I now have a mount that spins willingly and smoothly again in both axes ! Thank you.</p>
<p>Some observations and points you may like to add to your FAQ notes:</p>
<p>If the problem is only stiffness when balancing in Declination then the circular plate with 2 small  holes on top of the dec head can be loosened to achieve this. Nothing to remove and it will have no effect on the scope drive when the head is clamped for slewing and tracking.</p>
<p>The RA axis bearing control ring (under the polar scope as you describe) can be loosened for easier balancing.This shaft does not rotate when the RA axis is clamped as the body goes around the fixed shaft. I could not see whether the ring controlled the end float of the RA head on the clamped shaft. It probably does. A little friction is necessary for damping the drive when tracking so dont make it completely free for balancing.</p>
<p>The circular plate underneath the DEC head is indeed the main thrust control for that axis when tracking/slewing and in my case the bearing was slightly stiff. You do not mention that there is also a lock grub scew on this plate at 90deg to the two pin holes . It has to be aligned with a small cut out in the housing so that you can back it off and retighten with a 1.5mm allen key. Perhaps this is a later change?</p>
<p>I found the best way to investigate the mechanical state of the drive and bearings was to remove each of the drive cogs from the motors, by loosening the grub screws. I then ran each motor with the hand controller buttons and observed that they ran quickly and smoothly both ways  to confirm that it was not a control or electrical fault. With the motor cogs removed the worm drive and main bearing can then be seperately checked by finger and thumb on the driven cog. Motion should be smooth, easy and you may feel just a little back lash. It is worth going round 360 deg of the toothed wheel as the worm drive can be tighter/looser in some places. Any adjustment of the worm should be done at the tight spot. </p>
<p>In my case fortunately the RA drive felt good but the DEC drive was tight. I removed the control board and cover as you describe. </p>
<p>On the RA worm at this point it is possible to wipe excess dirty grease away from the worm and apply a small amount of clean grease just on the worm. Turn the worm to spread the grease and remove excess. I also put a spot of thin oil on the end of the RA worm shaft where it is located by a chrome hex nut which controls end float on this shaft &#8211; any excess is removed after rotating. Below I explain why!</p>
<p>On the DEC drive I had to do considerably more.The worm assembly removes completely by taking out the 4 cap head screws. The worm adjustment grub screw can be left unmoved. With the worm removed it was ideal to adjust main DEC shaft bearing since the free movement can now be felt exactly. I backed it off a fraction to get a nice buttery feel, but could tell this was not the cause of the problem.</p>
<p>The problem was that the DEC worm itself was tight in its block. Remove the cog and undo the chrome locknut. The exposed threaded sleeve under the nut will screw out from the block and the whole worm shaft can now be removed. There is a thin thrust washer not to lose ! The dirty worm grease had spead every where along the shaft into the bearings. All this was cleaned off and the shaft bearings given a smear of oil.<br />
Reassemble the worm block and set the end play with the thread and locknut to a nice feel with no play.Refit drive cog.The worm only can be greased a little and the block refixed. Fit and bed down the larger cap screws first but not tight. Fit the smaller cap screws tight and check the worm adjustment. If it feels Ok tighten the larger caps and check again. It may get tighter in which case you should loosen all the scews, move the grub scew in 1/8th turn and try again. </p>
<p>What if the problem was on the RA axis ? First try backing off the bearing ring on the shaft. If this does not help I would go the whole hog and remove the motor to get out the worm assembly and clean it completely not just adjust the depth.</p>
<p>In my case I now felt confident that the motors were OK.The main bearings on both shafts were not binding but not loose. The worms did not bind anywhere in 360deg and that the worm axles were not binding. The back lash was similiar on both axes and is 1/16&#8243;  at the edge of the worm cog. Any less and I felt binding. </p>
<p>I refittd the motor cogs to align with the worm cogs and refitted the control board and cover.<br />
Connected power and tested the drive and was happy to achieve fast and quiet operation on both axes. Back on with the plastic covers and job done.</p>
<p>All these things can be done inside in a warm clean environment and with simple hand tools.<br />
Even those who are wary of things mechanical could probably take off the plasic covers, remove the motor cogs and have a feel of the mechanical drive, remove excess grease and be happy that the mount is in good shape. It does seem that these mounts are prone to locking up on either axis, perhaps due to dirty grease and rather tight factory settings, and prevention may save a more expensive failure or poor slewing. </p>
<p>best wishes to all users,<br />
regards,<br />
Steve.</p>
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		<title>By: teresa</title>
		<link>http://enzerink.net/peter/blog/2008/06/24/vixen-star-book-faq/comment-page-1#comment-194</link>
		<dc:creator>teresa</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 19 Nov 2011 21:33:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">#comment-194</guid>
		<description>can i have a photo of the internal of starbook where there are the jumper plugs because i have find the photo in internet but my starbook is not so. my problem is the autoguiding with st4 with ccd magzer 5m thank so much</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>can i have a photo of the internal of starbook where there are the jumper plugs because i have find the photo in internet but my starbook is not so. my problem is the autoguiding with st4 with ccd magzer 5m thank so much</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Peter Enzerink</title>
		<link>http://enzerink.net/peter/blog/2008/06/24/vixen-star-book-faq/comment-page-1#comment-172</link>
		<dc:creator>Peter Enzerink</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 01 Mar 2011 04:56:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">#comment-172</guid>
		<description>Hi Georgio. I&#039;m afraid I don&#039;t where you would source spare parts as big as the screen. I suspect that means the main board is damaged so the repair cost would likely be the same as replacement cost. :(</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Georgio. I&#8217;m afraid I don&#8217;t where you would source spare parts as big as the screen. I suspect that means the main board is damaged so the repair cost would likely be the same as replacement cost. <img src='http://enzerink.net/peter/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_sad.gif' alt=':(' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
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		<title>By: Peter Enzerink</title>
		<link>http://enzerink.net/peter/blog/2008/06/24/vixen-star-book-faq/comment-page-1#comment-171</link>
		<dc:creator>Peter Enzerink</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 01 Mar 2011 04:55:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">#comment-171</guid>
		<description>G&#039;day Ross. The Star Book contains the drive logic so it needs to stay with the telescope. It is a simple matter to connect the Star Book to a wireless bridge such as an Airport Express and control it via its registered IP address using my ASCOM driver or other means. You could optionally make an address reservation in DHCP to avoid the need to update it in the config occasionally when the reservation expires.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>G&#8217;day Ross. The Star Book contains the drive logic so it needs to stay with the telescope. It is a simple matter to connect the Star Book to a wireless bridge such as an Airport Express and control it via its registered IP address using my ASCOM driver or other means. You could optionally make an address reservation in DHCP to avoid the need to update it in the config occasionally when the reservation expires.</p>
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		<title>By: Ross Elkins</title>
		<link>http://enzerink.net/peter/blog/2008/06/24/vixen-star-book-faq/comment-page-1#comment-170</link>
		<dc:creator>Ross Elkins</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 01 Mar 2011 04:44:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">#comment-170</guid>
		<description>Peter, great site, thanks for sharing your expertise and taking the time to assemble your knowledge. I am awaiting my used SXD mount and one of the first things I will takle is getting a small wireless wifi interface going on the sphinx. I am a network admin and so that struck me as something useful to accomplish. Of course your site has been around awhile and I&#039;m sure its quite possible that this has been done already!
Clear skies, Ross</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Peter, great site, thanks for sharing your expertise and taking the time to assemble your knowledge. I am awaiting my used SXD mount and one of the first things I will takle is getting a small wireless wifi interface going on the sphinx. I am a network admin and so that struck me as something useful to accomplish. Of course your site has been around awhile and I&#8217;m sure its quite possible that this has been done already!<br />
Clear skies, Ross</p>
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		<title>By: GIORGIO</title>
		<link>http://enzerink.net/peter/blog/2008/06/24/vixen-star-book-faq/comment-page-1#comment-169</link>
		<dc:creator>GIORGIO</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 12 Feb 2011 07:20:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">#comment-169</guid>
		<description>HI PETER, MAYBE YOU CAN HELP ME. THE OTHER DAY MY STARBOOK-S ACCIDENTALLY FELL AND BROKE THE LIQUID CRYSTAL DISPLAY. I TRIED SEARCHING ON THE INTERNET A DISPLAY PARTS BUT I CAN NOT FIND IT. KNOW WHERE CAN I FIND AND BUY ANOTHER DISPLAY? THANK&#039;S</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>HI PETER, MAYBE YOU CAN HELP ME. THE OTHER DAY MY STARBOOK-S ACCIDENTALLY FELL AND BROKE THE LIQUID CRYSTAL DISPLAY. I TRIED SEARCHING ON THE INTERNET A DISPLAY PARTS BUT I CAN NOT FIND IT. KNOW WHERE CAN I FIND AND BUY ANOTHER DISPLAY? THANK&#8217;S</p>
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		<title>By: Rob Burrowes</title>
		<link>http://enzerink.net/peter/blog/2008/06/24/vixen-star-book-faq/comment-page-1#comment-22</link>
		<dc:creator>Rob Burrowes</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 14 Mar 2010 01:54:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">#comment-22</guid>
		<description>/move does work, but only has an effect if the values are from 10 .. 19.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>/move does work, but only has an effect if the values are from 10 .. 19.</p>
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		<title>By: Peter Enzerink</title>
		<link>http://enzerink.net/peter/blog/2008/06/24/vixen-star-book-faq/comment-page-1#comment-21</link>
		<dc:creator>Peter Enzerink</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 14 Mar 2010 00:07:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">#comment-21</guid>
		<description>It is best to align the scope then not use the StarBook further as the ASCOM driver will become confused if state is changed outside of the software.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>It is best to align the scope then not use the StarBook further as the ASCOM driver will become confused if state is changed outside of the software.</p>
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		<title>By: Rob Burrowes</title>
		<link>http://enzerink.net/peter/blog/2008/06/24/vixen-star-book-faq/comment-page-1#comment-20</link>
		<dc:creator>Rob Burrowes</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 13 Mar 2010 23:52:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">#comment-20</guid>
		<description>My fault. Sort of. I manually had put the starbook into scope mode. I think this was causing a conflict between your commands and the starbook firmware. Both are trying to control the scope. 

I have done a tcpdump of the traffic to see what is happening. The /start command returns an error if the starbook is not in the INIT state. The starbook was already in the SCOPE state. Hence the initial error trying to connect.

The /stop command also returns an error if the scope state had been manually put into SCOPE mode. It doesn&#039;t give the error if the /start command put the starbook into SCOPE mode, though it doesn&#039;t seem to stop the scope either. It does work when the starbook is doing a goto command. It does stop the slew if it is sent then.

I looked at the latitude and longitude in the tcp dump, and they are 1 minute out too, so your driver is returning what it is being given by the starbook, which means the starbook is at fault. The screen shows what I entered.

I found a /gohome?home=0 command too, which returned the scope to the powered on position. Just randomly typing to see what it would do:)

I couldn&#039;t see what the move? command did. Your driver sends it, but the scope didn&#039;t move if I changed the values from 0. The command was not rejected. Is this a set up for another command?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>My fault. Sort of. I manually had put the starbook into scope mode. I think this was causing a conflict between your commands and the starbook firmware. Both are trying to control the scope. </p>
<p>I have done a tcpdump of the traffic to see what is happening. The /start command returns an error if the starbook is not in the INIT state. The starbook was already in the SCOPE state. Hence the initial error trying to connect.</p>
<p>The /stop command also returns an error if the scope state had been manually put into SCOPE mode. It doesn&#8217;t give the error if the /start command put the starbook into SCOPE mode, though it doesn&#8217;t seem to stop the scope either. It does work when the starbook is doing a goto command. It does stop the slew if it is sent then.</p>
<p>I looked at the latitude and longitude in the tcp dump, and they are 1 minute out too, so your driver is returning what it is being given by the starbook, which means the starbook is at fault. The screen shows what I entered.</p>
<p>I found a /gohome?home=0 command too, which returned the scope to the powered on position. Just randomly typing to see what it would do:)</p>
<p>I couldn&#8217;t see what the move? command did. Your driver sends it, but the scope didn&#8217;t move if I changed the values from 0. The command was not rejected. Is this a set up for another command?</p>
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		<title>By: Peter Enzerink</title>
		<link>http://enzerink.net/peter/blog/2008/06/24/vixen-star-book-faq/comment-page-1#comment-19</link>
		<dc:creator>Peter Enzerink</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 13 Mar 2010 07:12:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">#comment-19</guid>
		<description>Hmm I haven&#039;t seen that problem before but I&#039;m not familiar with StellariumScope.

You are best off enquiring on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Vixen_Sphinx/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Yahoo Group&lt;/a&gt; regarding usage and compatibility as there are many combinations of setup and I&#039;ve only tested a fraction.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hmm I haven&#8217;t seen that problem before but I&#8217;m not familiar with StellariumScope.</p>
<p>You are best off enquiring on the <a href="http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Vixen_Sphinx/" rel="nofollow">Yahoo Group</a> regarding usage and compatibility as there are many combinations of setup and I&#8217;ve only tested a fraction.</p>
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